Vela has been in the game since 2009, and is one of a handful of modest brands that can teach us a thing or two about running a business. Established by two sisters, Marwa and Tasneem, unimpressed with what the American modest wear scene had to offer, they decided to take matters into their own hands and design headscarves that not only supported the hijab journeys of their customers, but also empowered the women making them.
Known for their pillow soft fabrics and luscious prints and colour ways, Vela has certainly cemented themselves as fashion mavens behind many of the trends we’ve seen in hijabs up to today. If Vela had a physical storefront, we would be sure to witness tug-of-war battles over their most memorable drops. Truffle mushroom, watercolour floral, and leopard are the most recent designs to sell out within minutes, with many sisters reporting that it felt like fighting for their lives at the checkout to secure the goods.
Because Vela prioritises quality over quantity, restocks are notorious for taking a hot minute. But the quality and the knowledge that each purchase supports a community and contributes to sustainable practices is worth it. This is slow fashion and what sustainability groups are pushing for.
So what’s the deal with the recent backlash they’ve been receiving?
Firstly is the price. Vela’s modal and jersey ranges run from £12-£22 depending on size and design. Their silk chiffon range was priced around £30 (expected for silk). Many sisters find the pricing “extortionate” for a headscarf, especially one that seems to be so transparent. This also doesn’t include postage costs, and customs fees if applicable.
Secondly, many sisters claim that Vela encourages overconsumption. How many TikToks have we seen of girls with the entire collection, many of them barely even worn? And it doesn’t help that their marketing campaigns are oh so good (allahumma baarik).
Thirdly, the classic Vela way of styling the headscarf has been called out as being improper hijab and a bad influence on Muslim women. That coupled with the transparency of many of the scarves has left a sour taste in some consumers’ mouths.
To address the issue of price:
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: gone are the days of cheap items worth buying. We have to pay up if we want a quality product made ethically. Vela scarves are made in small batches and hand-dyed by a team of skilled artisans (most of them women) in India. We love the sound of this, but many of us don’t realise what this actually means.
Take into account where they are based. California is one of the most expensive states in America and for a small brand that has overhead costs and staff to pay, the pricing of their products can’t be charitable.
Also, their production methods care for the environment and the people involved and pay everyone a fair, living wage. And with a portion of the proceeds from their sales, Vela is giving a generous amount of sadaqah.
For the overconsumption issue: Vela knows how to market their product so it sells fast and they make their money. This is how business works. Just how many of us put in effort to secure a job and bring home a pay check, brand owners have a job to do to keep their brand afloat and the money coming in. The fact of the matter is that misogyny and entitlement are still very much internalised in us and we will pick Muslim women apart for the same things we applaud men and non-Muslims for doing. The overconsumption of hijabs isn’t a Vela problem. It’s a greed problem within ourselves.
The third issue regarding modesty: why are we blaming a brand for how we wear the hijab? So what if their models wear it a certain way? That has nothing to do with us. We can kindly advise, but backbiting and being nasty in the comments won’t pave way for the changes we wish to see. Taking accountability for our own actions is a must. We can’t keep pointing the finger at others when faced with the question of why we’re not doing what we need to do.
Side note: The headscarf in America has been influenced by the post-9/11 reality. Daily life for Muslims was risky at that time and many parents pleaded with their daughters to remove their hijabs in order to come across as more American and, therefore, more patriotic. The headscarf is still worn in full by many American Muslims, but the casual open style seemingly popularised by Vela is very common for a reason. This doesn’t make it halal, but it does explain the more casual American approach to Islamic modesty that we see so often.
And lastly, many customers are showing that the latest modal releases are very transparent compared to earlier designs. There are also complaints across TikTok about a downfall in the quality of Vela modals. As a hijab company, there is a responsibility to make sure that the hijabs you’re selling meet basic standards of modesty. Transparency is something that will put off even the most loyal customer. These kind of oversights are also more likely to happen when a brand begins to expand and focus on other products. And while expansion is exciting, it’s important to avoid neglecting the very things that won over the girlie’s hearts from the very beginning.
Of course, kind feedback from customers can make a big difference. Brands listen when enough of us speak up on a certain issue because it’s in their best interest to keep their existing customer base happy.
Vela has also dipped their toes into the abaya pool with their first drop occurring during Ramadan of this year. While the sediment and linen designs were certainly on brand, I was a bit shocked to see the crushed velvet and ribbed jersey wave designs which are styles that circulated out of the GCC this year and have been adopted by a number of brands. These styles, while they have their merits, didn’t seem to fit the Vela brand. I would love to see more abayas in the future made from all natural fibres and more options to match with their scarves.
One recently released product that made me giggle was their Wrinkle Warrior - a slow-releasing bottled mist infused with wood and musk - aimed at making wrinkle resisting much easier. It is also £16 and the curly girls will know that this bottle can be purchased on Amazon for around £5 (not encouraging anyone to shop on Amazon, just for comparison’s sake!). Also it’s plastic, and I’m praying that they are refilled and not thrown away once they’re empty. While it is a great idea for a product, it seems to diverge from their ethos of sustainability. I don’t want to come across as completely disapproving this product (because it is very clever), it just made me laugh when I saw a hair spray bottle pop up on their Insta story.
To round up this analysis, I think Vela is brilliant and has earned its place in the hijabi hall of fame. While the complaints are valid, I think we also need to remind ourselves that good manners are sunnah and focus on providing constructive, respectful feedback to a company that has put so much effort into bringing ethical hijabs into the market. They’ve been operating since 2009, looong before any of these other brands that have popped up to profit on the path that Vela paved. And it is nice to see a brand that is always on their toes to bring us more.
But with growth and success, come plenty of lessons too. I believe Vela would greatly benefit in the long run from listening to customer feedback and continuing to keep sustainability at the forefront of all they do. I would also love to see them try out their designs on more ultra modest styles like the khimar for girls who prefer the extra coverage and practicality. Also, with what seems like a large customer base in the UK, would they ever consider opening up a UK branch? Lower postage costs and no customs fees just might win the girlies’ hearts back.
With all that being sad, I love and support Vela because I genuinely believe that they are striving to improve the industry and empower the community that produces their scarves. I’m really looking forward to seeing what they have planned for the future, insha’Allah.